Hamamatsu Castle, Futamata Castle, and Tobayama Castle Pages Renewed

2020/04/29

My first castle visit (初登城) of 2020 was Tobayama Castle in Shizuoka Prefecture. This day also saw visits to Futamata Castle and Hamamatsu Castle. I actually have a lot more castle visits from 2019 to add, but I really wanted to update my 20 year old pictures of Hamamatsu Castle sooner than later.

Futamata Castle / 二俣城

Futamata Castle has some really great nozurazumi stonework around the site, including a main keep foundation. One interesting aspect of this site is that you can see how a Sengoku Period earthworks castle was renovated into a more modern stonework castle. Between the Honmaru and Kitaguruwa (where the shrine is located) you can see a large tatebori. On the other side of the ninomaru is also a large horikiri trench. If you cross and go back into the woods you will also see another large horikiri trench was cut through the bedrock. If you continue down to the path that takes you to Tobayama Castle you will also pass several smaller stepped earthworks baileys. Futamata Castle is best visited along with Tobayama Castle. My recommendation is to start from Futamata Honmachi Station, walk to Futamata Castle and then walk across the embankment along the river to Tobayama Castle. After Tobayama Castle you could walk to Nishikajima Station (2km) and take a different train line (Enshu Line), which provides perfect access to get you to Hamamatsu Castle allowing you to visit all 3 in one day. If you are lucky with timing, there is a bus that stops alongside both Futamata Castle and Tobayama Castle that will also take you directly to Nishikajima Station.

Hamamatsu Castle / 浜松城

Hamamatsu Castle sometimes gets a bad reputation for the poorly reconstructed keep that doesn't even fit the stone foundation, but it should be included among the must-see castles of Japan. The rough cut stone walls (nozura-zumi) are quite magnificent. They are a much older style than what you see at castles like Osaka Castle, Nagoya Castle, or Edo Castle and the amount of such remaining stone work is impressive. The hachimaki (headband) style stone walls (stone work just around the top of an embankment or hillside, reminiscent of a headband) around the main compound are also a unique feature. The site has been vastly developed over the last few years including the reconstruction of the Honmaru gate. In one of the photos below you will also see an artists' illustration that contains another single level watchtower and multiple castles walls. There are tentative plans to rebuild these as well.

Tobayama Castle / 鳥羽山城

Tobayama Castle is generally well signposted but there are some great stone walls around the Honmaru that are not obvious to the casual visitor. I had a good map, but if you walk along the embankments of the Honmaru you should be able to find a trail in the corner near the viewing platform that will take you down alongside the stone walls. You will also see the stonework marked in blue in the last photo below. Tobayama Castle is best visited along with Futamata Castle. My recommendation is to start from Futamata Honmachi Station, walk to Futamata Castle and then walk across the embankment along the river to Tobayama Castle. After Tobayama Castle you could walk to Nishikajima Station (2km) and take a different train line (Enshu Line), which provides perfect access to get you to Hamamatsu Castle allowing you to visit all 3 in one day. If you are lucky with timing, there is a bus that stops alongside both Futamata Castle and Tobayama Castle that will also take you directly to Nishikajima Station.

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